The Charente river (about 360km long) meanders from its source in the Limousin area through the Charente, to which it gives its name, ultimately flowing into the Atlantic near to Rochefort in the Charente-Maritime. The towns along its banks form a historic setting to the gentle countryside, starting in the market town of Ruffec which was a noted centre of the Resistance during World War II.

After flowing through Angoulême, the river passes through the village of Saint-Simeux, where eel farming was lively in the Middle Ages.

The small town of Saint-Simon follows, and is well worth checking out – the heart of Charente’s waterway traditions and its famous . These are special flat-bottomed sailing barges originally for shipping cognac, salt and other local products, still in use in the 19th century. They are now enjoying a comeback – on the tourism trail at any rate,for memorable cruises.

Saint-Simon is closely linked to the history of these boats, having been a boat-making centre since the Middle Ages, and you can still see the boatbuilders’ houses and their tools, as well as ancient graffiti.

One of the ‘must sees’ is the 18th century Maison des Gabariers. Lock, stock... and barrels. All along the river there are ancient locks, some as old as the reign of Henri IV (1589 - 1610).

There are some nineteen locks in the département, all manually operated, most of which were introduced in a campaign to improve transport, launched by Sully, chief minister during Henri IV’s time on the throne. But the Charente is not the only river in this watery département and you are never very far from a waterway, be it the Vienne, Bandiat, Tardoire, Dronne, Issoire, Touvre, Argentor, Son, Sonnette, Guirlande, Couture, Nouère, Lien, Né, Trèfle, Pharon, Échelle, Eaux-Claires or the Marchandaine.

Taking a tour of the small bridges around Vibrac is another way to appreciate the rivers, or why not cross the Charente on a chain ferry at Chaniers or Rouffiac? The best restaurants tend to be found on the riverbanks, offering an ever-changing view for lucky diners.